Depleted, in ruins, time-crushed and fading into oblivion, the 2000-odd-years-old Elephanta Caves is a classic case of an overcrowded, languishing Indian tourist spot run over by crass commercialisation.
A one-hour ferry ride away from Mumbai's Gateway of India shore, you first need to buy the tickets from the nobody-knows-where-it-is counter. At the time of writing, there are two different price variants for the individual tickets: Rs 145 and Rs 200. The latter also comes with a "luxury" tag on the ticket, for no apparent, discernible reason.
Ferry Ride to Elephanta: Eminent Dangers
On a Sunday morning, you will notice a huge chaotic bulge of something resembling a queue to the left of Gateway of India. On enquiry, you will find that it is indeed the trail that will lead you down to the ferries plying to and fro Elephanta.
The ferry ride in November is certainly pleasant, if not picturesque. There is no sign of life jackets, so pray that you can swim without panic, or that help comes along if any calamity strikes the clearly not-so-new ferry.
But I am being a pessimist, let's stick to the good parts. We get a good breeze blowing and the expansive view of the sea is strangely calming. The ferry engine sound is not unbearably loud. No, we don't see dolphins or exotic sea creatures, but it isn't a boring ride either. Several anchored cargo ships spring and glide away from view.
The first sight of the island is soothing from afar as we approach the docking area. Among the view of tin-roofed brightly painted settlements, there is a pale spread of trees over the stunted hills. There are over a hundred stone steps lined on either side with a couple of restaurants (beer (!), noodles, etc) decorative handicraft items and other odds and ends. A one-kilometre optional toy train ride, right at the start, is merely for decorative purpose rather than travelling ease or utility.
Sole Elephanta Attraction: The Trimurti Shiva
The one and only arresting sight at the Elephanta Caves is a striking rock-cut statue. The rock-cut figure of the Trimurti Shiva conveys a sense of mammoth proportions and majestic texture, with a Buddha-like peace spread across the smooth face, blissfully shut eyes, lips and chin. The crown, rich in detail, though eroded, is still adorned with remnants of the splendour the statue might have exuded at its prime. The rest of the figures at the caves either have their limbs and noses chopped off (by marauding invaders of the past ages) or are simply disappearing into intangibleness.
Returning from Elephanta
Feeding the trailing seagulls on the return ferry ride will most likely be among the few good things to experience on the trip. Apart from these two distinct experiences, one of a singular stillness in rock (the Trimurti Shiva) and the other of winged movement (wings, up close and overhead!), there is absolutely no other reason as to why you would visit Elephanta Caves.
Elephanta, Maybe
OK, maybe you can visit it once to appease your curiosity for ancient architecture and history. Maybe, a weekday trip would provide you with a comparatively better degree of serenity. Maybe, you can just take a ferry ride at twilight, ditch the ride to Elephanta and temporarily escape Mumbai's clamour, for the sea. Maybe.
The choice is yours.
